Went to Black Mt. again this wednesday.. With Black Mt. proper still 'closed' (to easy access) Ian has been busy developing lower elevation areas. He was nice enough to share syke and a tour of the newest area.. The gem of the area is the bloc shown below.. A stand start has seen a few ascents so far and is called "Forms V9".. Very classic. It starts two rails above where Ian's hands are in the picture below. Longish pulls on flat edges gain an arete (1/2 the climb is out of frame) which leads to negotiating slopers and slopey crimps with a heel to a spice full value topout.. The picture shows the angle of the boulder.. but nowhere near articulates its size.. After a couple days work, Ian put the whole thing together climbing it from a very obvious lower start-- first go on wednesday, looking very solid too.. The low consists of a completely new crux, and the whole problem together consists of 24+ hand moves (not including intermediates!).. The boulder itself along with the surrounding boulders form a cave, and a river (snowmelt) runs through it. Majestic!!! A truly classic bloc, and a fresh new addition two black, and socal's testpieces..
I learned on wednesday that there is something quite enjoyable about personally finding a boulder, conceiving of a line in your head, cleaning holds, and putting chalk on them.. Having the "vision" is something I definitely do not possess, but I admire it and the work and effort people put in to first ascents. Its fun!
Projects abound, we found and cleaned two new VERY classic problems at the end of the day. will be back.. very syked
1 comments:
one of the more compelling lines i've seen in a long while. nice
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