April 5, 2009


So now that the cats outta the bag... heres a couple photos of a truly stunning project at black mountain..  Contender for the best problem in socal?... if not at least top 3..  A bold claim, but significant and a quite fitting discussion given the title/premise of this blog.  So why is it so classic?  Dramatic setting.  Good landing.  Proud.  Striking feature.  Independent.  Very obvious start.  Cool movement.  Unique holds.  Full value.  Steep.  Aesthetically pleasing.  The holds are solid, good quality.  It still hasn't "gone" yet, but Ian is agonizingly close to topping this gem out. v-hard.


The past week has been somewhat uneventful.  I have stayed local and have been A) setting routes at the gym (earning a little bit of money), B) getting schoolwork squared away, and C) training hard, all for..... Joe's Valley!  Spring break! Im leaving april 9th and will return april 19th.  I am very syked.  My only climbing experience on sandstone roots from stoney point and redrocks.  I haven't really bouldered at all on quality sandstone yet.  And I am very very excited about climbing on rock that isn't sharp and slippery (a good change of pace) (although i LOVE bishop and black mountain).  On that note..  Big news: Black mountain proper is open. Yep.  Gate is open.  With all this plastic training, i made sure to get out yesterday and remind myself how to edge on small feet and maintain some climbing wizardy. Climbed in OK Corral and boulder basin yesterday.  Temps were splitter!  Enjoy it now, before it gets hot.  Massive shoutouts to the homie Ryan Wasell who put down Buzzsaw V10 with the quickness. Hasn't climbed outside in 6 months.  Still knows how to stand on his feet. Very impressive.  Very cool problem that I am looking forward to putting some more time into soon.  
Weather permitting..... Joes Joes Joes!  I have a few problems on my list (Wills a fire boulder, The Wind Below, Angler), but for those who may read this and have been to Joes please comment with any all-time classic problems v0-v10. It would be much appreciated. I actually dont have my sights set on any problem of the V9 difficulty, haven't found any info online of any "soulslinger" or "french tickler", or "right el jorge" or "slider" of Joe's..  

heres a tree from the majestic san jacinto boulder-littered forest

cheers,
I promise to update at least once while im out there doin' it in Orangeville, UT

Posted by
Categories: Labels:

 

0 comments: