April 21, 2009


I've been bugging Ian to email me the photo I took of him on beyond life and have been waiting to make this post. Ryan's been bugging me to make a post. So ill do two, one now and one later.. In short, I took very few photos. It's difficult to juggle climbing/photography.. And given the days were very numbered, my plan was to only shoot photos on my rest day.. Well i ended up taking two or three rest days, but they were forced due to snow, hence no one climbed on those days, hence not many pictards... at all..

The trip was amazing. Alot of friends showed up; 'Massive shoutouts' (steve bcee) to Jon, Ian and Bridget, Aron and Bri, Amna, Darryl, Ryan and Kelsey, and of course, Arthur the Gatherer.. For making my experience ever so enjoyable. Campfires were fun, resting was chill... Good times with good people.. By the way- Ian absolutely crushed. And Bridget had the send of the trip, stepping up and sending the scary--no TERRIFYING "Save Yourself" (7C). Unfortunately, Ian had the LA (last ascent) of a really nice problem called the Knocking Room. It was a solid powerful (not my style) crimpy problem. I was really excited about the holds / movement, it would have by far been the most powerful problem I had ever climbed. I worked out all the moves multiple times over 3 sessions (I poured alot of time into it) but never managed to link the 1st move with the 3rd before a friend broke a hold rendering it unclimbable. NEGATIVE! Well thats my sob story.. Lesson learned: bouldering is futile, boulders aren't immortal.. Not to downplay the legitimacy of being passionate about something for the sheer reason to be passionate about something.. I always gain morsels of knowledge from roadtrips.. Whether it be physical or mental. It's one huge reason I like traveling.. I didn't let it get me down, and left satisfied with the numerous hours I spent climbing on the perfect black sandstone, and the super classic moderates that I did send. If you can.. GO TO JOES. you won't regret it.  I will be back.. for longer next time.  I have vowed it to myself.

This is great...  Ian--err--Bruce Banner had to get angry for the send..

Zoom in on it.. crazy!  Apple Pie = Rocket Fuel?? 



Waiting...


Lets play the Eastsidebouldering.blogspot.com game.... which hold is this?


eden.. yes: AGAIN! sorry..


This lady at the Gas station was selling swedish fish..  single serving..  bizarre.




Socal News:
Ian topped out the amazing arete at black mountain discussed below.  For the probable FA of "Twilight of The Idols" V10.  Nic and Alan have both repeated it, attesting to how classic it is... Apparently Alex is on poon status  (due to excessive amounts of sport climbing) and isn't buying into the hype.. ;)  Here's a crappy video of Alan's send.  

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7 comments:

Anonymous said...

My answer: Resident Evil, toward the start of the climb?

Cheers to Dom for making the trip amazingly fun w/ his relentless psych and positive energy!

B

Alex said...

whoa there with the harsh words! It's not my fault Ian sandbagged the hike so that I would bring my big pad and not have enough energy to climb! It's all his fault, I swear!

Classic Bloc said...
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Classic Bloc said...

Bridget - CORRECT. left hand Resident Evil starting hold, and right foot for black lung.

Alex - LOL. i was hoping i would wake up this morning and see a comment from you.. funny stuff... the hike is way rougher with a big pad, bc the manzanita trail is so narrow.

Alex said...

haha I like the Hulk picture!
Ian won't return my texts anymore, I think he's mad cause I told him it was a waste of time to hike up to twilight!

Classic Bloc said...

LOL. that would do it! climbing this weekend?

Alex said...

Nope, I'm flying home tomorrow to surprise my sister on her birthday! I'll catch up with you guys next weekend!